Saturday, 04 September 2010

Asparagus – the king of British luxury foods

A COUPLE of weeks ago we fleetingly mentioned that the asparagus season is about to hit us.

British asparagus is truly May’s pick of the month.

Therefore we duly provide you with a bit of handy info on the little blighters.

Home grown asparagus has a desperately short season (just May and June).

So take advantage of it while you can as it is one of the finest British luxury foods.

But why is it so expensive to buy?

Well, it is expensive to grow and tricky to harvest. Every spear needs to be gently hand cut so as not to damage its crown. Unsuitable for machine harvest this is truly back breaking work!

When buying asparagus, look for stems with firm and wrinkle free flesh.

The heads, or points, should be tightly closed and dry. Any wetness may be a sign that they are beginning to rot.

After asparagus is cut it naturally begins to deteriorate.

Therefore the fresher you can get it, the better it is. This is why home grown is superior to imported.

When it is first cut, the end of the stems are still fresh and can be eaten.

However after a while the stems become woody and unpleasant to eat.

The easiest way to tell where the woodiness ends is to hold a spear at both ends, apply a bit of pressure and it will snap just before the woody part.

Although not good to eat, these ends can be used in a stock (perhaps if you were making asparagus risotto).

Asparagus only needs to be briefly cooked; this will retain its freshness, flavour and colour.

Our three most common ways of cooking: (and we reckon those fancy asparagus steamers are a waste of good money. A common-or-garden steamer or colander over a pan of water with a lid will do)

To steam – lay the stalks in a single layer in a steamer, or covered colander and cook for 3-4 minutes.

To boil – cook in boiling salted water for 2-3 minutes.

To char grill – toss the spears in a little oil and cook in a single layer in a smoking hot griddle pan until charred on all sides and just tender – about 4-5 mins.

Here’s a simple starter or snack recipe to get you started.

Serves 4

16 asparagus spears, trimmed

125g ball mozzarella, sliced into 4

8-12 slices prosciutto

3 tbsp olive oil

1 tbsp red wine vinegar

a small handful of fresh basil, finely shredded

salad leaves to serve

Blanch the asparagus for two minutes in boiling salted water then refresh under cold water.

Cut each mozzarella slice in half and sit both pieces on top of two spears of asparagus. Top with two more spears then wrap the asparagus in prosciutto so the mozzarella is enclosed (you will need two or three strips).

Heat a little olive oil in a pan, then carefully fry the parcels until the prosciutto has crisped and the mozzarella oozes.

Whisk together the olive oil and vinegar and add the basil. Serve each parcel with salad leaves and a little dressing drizzled over.

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